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I wanted to scatter Dad’s ashes in Antarctica. It didn’t go as planned
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Dressed for the coldest conditions, I step out of the zodiac and place my feet on the White Continent for the first time.
I feel a little awkward, because I’m still finding my way in this Antarctic armor. I’m wearing four layers on top, including three jackets, all of their hoods over my head. Thick winter gloves cover my fingers. In my pocket is, of all things, a bag of ashes, which adds to the bulk. I can feel the bump it makes on the right side of my jacket as I bend over and secure my snowshoes.
I brought the bag because, like many travelers, I thought spreading Dad’s ashes somewhere special would be a nice tribute. This June will be 10 years since he died, and it would have been special to share this trip to Antarctica with him. Maybe a ceremonial offering, such as the spreading of his ashes, could suffice.
I’m prepared to spread the ashes on this very walk, amongst the icebergs, mountains, penguins and glacier blue ice. But, before we set off on the snowshoe, the guide gives a safety briefing that cools my jets.
Antarctica has strict regulations — nothing should touch the ground other than our boots. No sitting. No snow angels. No packs on the ground. Do not toss away food or pour out drinks. Under no circumstances should anything be left behind, he says.
When drawing up this dream ceremony, it never occurred to me to think about any rules or regulations surrounding the spreading of ashes. Turns out, not only do ash-scattering restrictions exist, but all around the world, there are specific rules about where and how you can spread them both on land and in the water.
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28 Feb 2025 - 05:38 pm
‘You get one split second’: The story behind a viral bird photo
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By his own admission, James Crombie knew “very, very little” about starlings before Covid-19 struck. An award-winning sports photographer by trade, his only previous encounter with the short-tailed birds occurred when one fell into his fireplace after attempting to nest in the chimney of his home in the Irish Midlands.
“I always had too much going on with sport to think about wildlife,” said Crombie, who has covered three Olympic Games and usually shoots rugby and the Irish game of hurling, in a Zoom interview.
With the pandemic bringing major events to a halt, however, the photographer found himself at a loose end. So, when a recently bereaved friend proposed visiting a nearby lake to see flocks of starlings in flight (known as murmurations), Crombie brought along his camera — one that was conveniently well-suited to the job.
“You get one split second,” he said of the similarities between sport and nature photography. “They’re both shot at relatively high speeds and they’re both shot with equipment that can handle that.”
On that first evening, in late 2020, they saw around 100 starlings take to the sky before roosting at dusk. The pair returned to the lake — Lough Ennell in Ireland’s County Westmeath — over successive nights, choosing different vantage points from which to view the birds. The routine became a form of therapy for his grieving friend and a source of fascination for Crombie.
“It started to become a bit of an obsession,” recalled the photographer, who recently published a book of his starling images. “And every night that we went down, we learned a little bit more. We realized where we had to be and where (the starlings) were going to be. It just started to snowball from there.”
‘I’ve got something special here’
Scientists do not know exactly why starlings form murmurations, though they are thought to offer collective protection against predators, such as falcons. The phenomenon can last from just a few seconds to 45 minutes, sometimes involving tens of thousands of individual birds. In Ireland, starlings’ numbers are boosted during winter, as migrating flocks arrive from breeding grounds around Western Europe and Scandinavia.
Crombie often saw the birds form patterns and abstract shapes, their varying densities appearing like the subtle gradations of paint strokes. The photographer became convinced that, with enough patience, he could capture a recognizable shape.